Brothers, there's only four days left to win the marauders. There was a little bit of a mistake with the marauder giveaway rules, small miscommunication kind of on my part - it's actually the marauder and 10 000 cash or 25 000 cash. What we're giving away was supposed to just be the marauder, but there was kind of a typo. So now it's the marauder and 10 grand cash went in your guys, favor, so we're just leaving it here's the deal we got new merch listed on the website.

Right now, every five dollars you spend at clevesmcfarland.com gets you an entry to win this marauder and there's only four days left so head to clevelandfallen.com after the video to enter for a chance to win the ultimate sleeper marauder giveaway. Well, that's it! For now, let's get to the live action: hell yeah brother you're on the pleasement front, youtube channel! Well guys the blazer needed a lot of love right. This thing only did wheelies, it was kind of slow and it's finally time to make it fast, but first need some safety equipment and some major improvements with how the engine sits in this puppy. Let's jump to a humongous tie time lapse of the blazer evolving to what it is.

Now i got to get to work on this old clunker yeah. We got some work ahead of us. We got some pretty bad rust in the floor, so we'll figure that out in a little bit uh. The first thing i got to do is get a game plan.

I've already drawn this whole car in cad. So i know where all my bends and angles are so in order for this cage to be proper, we have to go through the floor and into the frame and connect it to the frame and then put a brace plate right here on the floor itself. To connect the frame to the body since it's a full-frame car, we want to get this thing 850 inserted. So the first order of business is going to be taking that hole and putting a stand out off of this frame.

Rail right here, so we're gon na. Do that for all four holes in the rear, i'm gon na find out where the frame runs through we're gon na drill a couple. Little pilot holes eighth inch and figure out where exactly the frame is we're going to tie into those later after we've dropped the cage and welded the top. Those will probably be the last two bars that we do all right, so we got those tacked in now.

If you see you look down in, there see a tube sticking out nice and centered with the hole uh. Hopefully that makes a little more sense now what we're trying to accomplish. I got all four corners for the main uh cage supports in, and nice and square with the holes. So the next thing we're gon na do is i'm gon na hop on my computer, i'm gon na measure and draw out the main hoop of the car.

So i take these measurements from the main hoop inside the car, write them down, transfer them over to this cad program called bentek. It gives me a nice little hoop and it even shows me where to bend it. So i write those numbers for my cuts and bends and how many degrees throw it in the notcher in the bender zip it out no problem. Man check that out.

So we got our main hoop in it's through the floor. It's notched and it's to those tubes and tacked in so that is in there that's not moving anywhere next step is i have three tubes over here. This one is going to be our dash bar and these two are our vertical bars that go up to the dash bar from the holes we cut in the floor. So let's get these notched up and this all packed in the car and then we can start on our down and forward bars all right.

So now we have the dash bar in and we have our two forward and down bars in. We have our hoop in so the next step is we're gon na go from that corner of the hoop forward down to the dash bar all right. So we got the windshield crossbar in uh. It was a teeny tiny bit too loose for my liking.

It fits really good, but i did not want it to move while i was welding, so i went ahead and do a ratchet strap on it just to put a little pressure on it, so it doesn't move when i attack it. So let's go ahead and hold that bam all right so per usual. I say i'm going to do something and then i decide i'm going to do a different bar in a different order instead and that reason is always changing. So i did the four day pillar bars and i wanted to make sure that they didn't move and they stayed square.

So i ended up doing the window bar first and now i'm going to do the harness bar bye. Okay, so we got our harness bar in it's fully welded out. The next step is door bars. So what i went ahead and did is i slapped the motion.

Race work steering column kit in so i had a good idea where the wheel was gon na sit. I got my block of wood, that's my seat and then i uh i sat in the car and i made sure that wherever i put my door bars, they have to come off the cage here they have to land somewhere on this tube here and the most Important thing about this, and this will get a car - that's not certifiable a lot of times. Is you want this door bar tube to pass the driver in between the shoulder and the elbow area? If it's above the shoulder or below the elbow, it will not pass the tech nine times out of ten, so i went in there verified it figured out where i want it. Luckily, i guesstimated, where this tube had to go pretty good, so we're going to go right off this tube, where it's a nice strong, node anytime, you can get more than one tube in the same location, you're going to have a stronger joint point, the stronger cage And that ties the car together so we'll have a stronger frame so we're going to throw the door tubes in right.

Now, all right look at that. We got every tube in this car that we need. This thing is ready to uh go ahead and pop a couple tacks: we're gon na drop the cage weld out the whole tops where we can't get to because of the headliner that is too close to it. Uh then we're gon na lift the cage back up in the car, fully weld out the rest of the stuff.

I'm gon na throw the door bars in where they're supposed to go right now, they're just sitting there we're gon na fully weld those out, and then this thing is done. Okay, so we cut those four stanchions, the cage dropped by itself about three or four inches, and the reason i'm doing all that is so that we can get to the tops of these tubes that are really close to the roof line. I need to have enough room to get in there and weld those all the way out and fully fit them and finish all right. I went ahead and used a bed mount jack, stick whatever you want to call that.

I use that to push the cage back up into place. Now, i'm going to go ahead climb under here we're going to weld these tubes back to the frame and then we're going to start patching up the holes on the floorboard um all right. So the last thing that we have to do before we put door bars in is this big ugly hole on the floor has to get covered up with an eighth inch six by six plate per the rule book and the best way that i know of to Do that is like if it agrees with me, stick that in and this side goes here, this plate will get squared up and then we'll weld this in we'll weld that seam and we'll weld it to the tube. All right, not the most exciting thing in the world, but we got all the floor plates welded in and ready to rock the next part and the last part of this cage is the door bar yeah and i got so excited.

I almost forgot to show you guys this cage 100 done welded out. The only thing i have left is, i got to cut the stub ends off of the dash bar and then i'm going to make a nice little template that caps, this tube and wraps up on these and weld those in and then i know this gap looks A little bit big, but the factory plastic should still slide up in there and close that gap. This should be a nice tight, fitting pillar, and then i had to go in and do some custom little bendy dudes on these to clear the uh factory dash panel or door panels, one less piece of the puzzle to worry about all right guys so ty wrapped Up the cage and now we're jumping over to the front end of the blazer, where you'll see we have an innovative, racecraft k-member. This is the same company that made the k-member for the el camino.

We didn't get an unboxing video because they kind of just dropped. This thing off the shop while it's gone and ty slapped it in the car, and it also comes with trz control, arms and all sorts of good stuff. So this k-member pairs up with some nice other race car parts for the blazer. We got the whole kit from innovative, but let's jump back into the time lapses.

All right! So now that the cage is done, we went ahead and stripped all the stuff off the frame rails. I cleaned up this frame rail so that i can measure from that hole forward, 10 inches and cut it. I'm going to clean up this frame rail and do the same, we'll cut this off, and then i have to cut and clean up the whole center cross. Brace because that gets replaced on this kit too, all right, so we just cut the frame horns off.

I cut the center section out now we can go ahead and get a better idea of where exactly i can cut these motor mounts out and then we'll go into the hand, grinder and clean all that up. So it looks nice and purty this thing's, starting to look more like a race car already, so we went ahead. I finished cutting all the front end and core support pieces out and, like i told you, i went through cleaned up the old shock towers that came out to probably about here, they're really intrusive in the engine bay. So we cut those out fitting.

This is pretty simple: it comes with instructions, it tells you where to cut, i like to cut it an inch long and then the tube slides inside and once i get this end of the frame, rail, nice and square, where i want it, i just come in With a cut off wheel, cut that thing out and then i make my little end plates, so i got my end plates on there they're tacked on both sides. We've got those tacked up. The next step is probably going to be i'll, pull the core support and i'll pull the fenders off um. This looks so good.

Oh, it's legit dude. This looks so good. The only problem is the hat's supposed to be over the roof line. Yeah it's pretty low, but it's clean though that's what we need to do.

We need to have the engine low. That's just the fact that the engine's in pretty much the exact same place. It always was too yeah. True.

Can we get a two foot hat extender? We probably could, i think they make a big spacer. Oh yeah yeah they got intercoolers that'll, raise it up a good foot. You ever seen that lamborghini blower thing that guy built and he's got that hat yes i'll pick you up guys. I haven't stepped back and looked at it, yet it's called coke dude that looks so good, so this innovative racecraft k-member really gets rid of all that junk.

That was in the way i mean dude, you're gon na be able to do spark plugs in this thing. Honestly, even if you're, not thai, you could pretty you could do this yeah. It helps to be tough, very nice kit yeah. It needs to be tight.

Definitely wouldn't look like this yeah, so ty really did a killer job on this thing, i'm surprised too, because i know you hate the blazer, i'm just kidding every time i ask him, can we do something he's like no every time i work on it, there's less And less because the rust keeps falling out, i know yeah, so the cage is in too. I had to do a lot of extra work to get this cage in here. This is an 850 spec cage, but it had so much rust in the floors and taya had to go a little extra yeah. So none with a full frame car you have to go through the floor and tie into the frame rails on the actual frame, so that added a good bit of work and then uh blasting holes through rust can kind of to get a little hairy.

A little rusty dude we can't let the cage get rusty, so i haven't decided if we're gon na wrap it in leather or get it chromed. I was just gon na. Let you pick one. Oh, those are my only two options.

What about rattle? Can i'm really good at that yeah? That's what i'm thinking dude, who would have thought we bought this thing off of craigslist and now it's a full blown race, car yeah. So there's some rust, you guys can see that's kind of what ty was dealing with. There's a lot of that and rebuilding it we'll have to really seal up this firewall. You know, make sure everything's good there, but quite a few rust holes all right.

Let's get in. We got everything for the engine stuff. So once ty is done right, we don't have much we're going to be waiting on, went from nothing to something real, quick here: zero to 100 real, quick yeah, and i blame all of you guys, because you guys loved rocky so much that we ended up turning It into a full-blown race car, it's your guy's fault. You know you shouldn't, have watched those videos and then we wouldn't have to do this, but here we are, but it's so fun.

This thing was another year of street driving. This thing would have been in the junkyard without much 100 resurrected, mcfarland restorations, all right. So what's the next step you're doing motor plates, so yeah we had to test fit. It make sure that the blower wasn't gon na be an issue as far as front to back goes yeah and then now now i know where it's at.

I can cut and uh modify everything to do the front plate and motor plate good plate with all that. Right, oh another problem: what not going to be able to run exhaust to the back, so it's going to have to have zoomies out damn what a shame yeah! Why is that yeah? It's looking tight, there's just no room. I can tell right now no room to run an exhaust on this thing. Sorry, everybody it's gon na be the loudest car we've ever had plus sam's got the paint looking dialed.

Look at that dude. Really it's like big, it's not obnoxious, it looks so good. Looks so good all right guys, so the plan is to have the blazer back in action very soon. Ty is just knocking out work on this thing.

It's obviously a huge fabrication process, but i want to give a shout out to all the guys for filming their own videos in the shop because you guys love watching them work in the shop and i'm in and out all the time. So these guys filming ty especially, is doing such a good job, and i just want to take a moment to thank them and tell them they're, just amazing people. We have such a great crew at the shop everything's happening. It's such a fast pace, it's just amazing, but that's it for now guys, thanks for watching see you later, i.